Volterra
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We were unsure of the prospect of a four hour bus ride from Rome to Volterra, but it turned out to be a great experience. As we watched the Italian countryside unfold, we were excited to see the many small fortress towns along the way. A view of the Carrara Marble Mountains was a completely unexpected delight. The Alterini coach was quite comfortable, but the idea of napping never occurred to us. With strategic stops at Chef Express rest areas for refreshments, the trip went quickly. In addition, our guide Jamie entertained us with stories and amusing anecdotes about historical figures and locations.
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Dinner at Sacco Fiorentino:
Ravioli of Spinach and Ricotta
with Pork and Mushroom Ragu
Duck or Chicken Cacciatore
Semifreddo and Fruits of the Woods
Local white and red wines:
Chianti-Sangiovese
Grappa and Limoncello
Ravioli of Spinach and Ricotta
with Pork and Mushroom Ragu
Duck or Chicken Cacciatore
Semifreddo and Fruits of the Woods
Local white and red wines:
Chianti-Sangiovese
Grappa and Limoncello
Jamie's account of Michelangelo's trips to the Carrara Mountains to select the exact multi-ton marble block for his next sculpting project made the connection with the artist's sculptures we saw in Rome, and would see in Florence.
Our Volterra guide, Annie, had a real gift for bringing the ancient Etruscan civilization to life with stories of the customs, politics, families and city.
Our Volterra guide, Annie, had a real gift for bringing the ancient Etruscan civilization to life with stories of the customs, politics, families and city.
We experienced a delicious and entertaining wine tasting and dinner at La Vena di Vino in Volterra. Sommelier Francesco provided a fine short course on the local wines while we tried the delicious cheeses, salami and prosciutto.
For the wine tasting, along with the meat and cheese plate we sampled: San Gimignano Vagnoni 2013 Chianti Classico Castello Di Selvole 2011 Supertuscan Le Macchiole Bolgheri Brunellodi Montalcino Riserva 2007 The wine tasting was followed by: Crostini and white truffle butter Fresh tagliatelle with local white truffles Cantucci and vin santo followed by "Holy Wine" We all enjoyed the savory dinner in the ancient rustic underground wine cellar. |
Volterra is full of history. The narrow lanes are lined with shops, studios and homes dating back centuries. The Etruscan Museum is filled with information about the lost Etruscan culture which seems to have just vanished.
As we found in most places we visited on our trip, the local churches are brimming with historical artifacts. |
The Porta All'Arco is one of the few remaining Etruscan arches. During World War II the Nazis planned to destroy it in order to block the advancing Allied Forces. The townspeople saved the arch and the city from destruction, filling the arch with paving stones ripped up from the streets in a single overnight effort.
We lunched on delicious kabob sandwiches, pizza and cold birra at La Mangiatoia, while we people watched at outside tables.
Roberto's alabaster studio is well worth a visit. It was amazing to watch him create a work of art from a piece of stone.
Volterra is a lovely pastoral location with expansive Tuscan valley and mountain views, and if you are fortunate, a distant ocean view on a clear day. The town has deep roots in the Etruscan history, with archeological discoveries currently being made in an ongoing dig.
Volterra is a lovely pastoral location with expansive Tuscan valley and mountain views, and if you are fortunate, a distant ocean view on a clear day. The town has deep roots in the Etruscan history, with archeological discoveries currently being made in an ongoing dig.
Lucca
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After leaving Volterra we made a stop in Lucca, home of our guide Jamie. Lucca is another fine example of a walled city which has survived largely unscathed for many centuries.
Our local guide, Gabriele, gave us a quick walking tour and history of the city. Before saying goodbye, he sang a bit of an opera aria. Bravo! There is much to see here, and a good vantage point is from the Guinigi Tower. The stair climb is well worth the effort to view the city. We stopped by a local artisan shop to watch a weaver at work on an old loom, and poked around several historical churches and museums. Lucca is known for a local specialty cecina, a savory chickpea Italian crepe best accompanied by a glass of rosso vino. Just what we needed for lunch! Our day in Lucca ended with a bicycle ride around the perimeter wall in both directions, which gave us a good perspective of the city and its residents. |
After an all too few hours in beautiful Lucca, it was back onto the bus and off to the Cinque Terre.
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